Anthony Vaccarello leaves Saint Laurent after a decade as creative director

The departure

Kering said on Friday, 9 October, that Anthony Vaccarello is leaving Saint Laurent after a decade as the brand's creative director. The Belgian designer was appointed in 2016 to succeed Hedi Slimane. Rumours of his exit had grown louder during Paris Fashion Week in late September, and the departure was first reported in mid-September. Kering said a new creative director will be announced soon, but the name of his successor is not yet known.

Saint Laurent's statement credited Vaccarello with a central role in the brand's development:

Over the past decade, Anthony Vaccarello has played a key role in the development of Saint Laurent, helping to strengthen its identity and its influence in the worlds of fashion and culture.

The final show

Vaccarello's last collection was shown on 29 September in Paris, in front of the Eiffel Tower. The spring-summer 2027 presentation comprised 59 looks, recovering some of the house's most representative pieces, from safari jackets to pencil skirts and evening dresses. Gold was the dominant colour of the show. Charlotte Gainsbourg, one of Vaccarello's muses, performed during the presentation, and the designer handed an object to his son on the runway. He gave no interviews around the show and accompanied the collection with a personal letter. Corriere della Sera reported that he did not speak to journalists before or after the show, as he usually did.

Brand performance and Kering's slump

Under Vaccarello, Saint Laurent passed well over €3 billion in annual sales in 2023, after strong Chinese demand had pushed the brand to global prominence. Kering said gross revenues fell by 9% in 2024 and by 6% in 2025, before largely stabilizing this year. The brand also expanded into film production, including the Cannes-winning Emilia Pérez. Saint Laurent was the last Kering brand to keep its creative director, after changes at Gucci, Balenciaga and Bottega Veneta amid the luxury slowdown. Kering shares are down 31% this year, and the group reports third-quarter sales on 22 October.

Luca de Meo's overhaul

Kering chief executive Luca de Meo is seeking to overhaul the group after years of decline, and regaining ground in China is a top priority. The departure opens the way for the new strategy that de Meo is pursuing. Vaccarello's exit was welcomed by the group's leadership in measured terms. Luca de Meo said:

Thanks to his creative vision and his high standards, he has helped strengthen the influence of one of the most prestigious French haute couture houses.

Cédric Charbit, president and chief executive of Saint Laurent, thanked Vaccarello for ten years of dedication and for helping to consolidate the desirability and image of the house.

What comes next

Kering has not yet named a successor, and the new creative director will be announced soon. Vaccarello's dates in the timeline run from his appointment in April 2016 to the announcement on 9 October 2026. The group's third-quarter sales will be published on 22 October, and the articles do not say when the new creative director will take up the role. Saint Laurent's creative direction now passes to a successor yet to be named.