Fausto Puglisi, the new creative director of the legendary fashion house Roberto Cavalli, presented his first haute couture collection in Milan. The presentation, part of the Milan Fashion Week program, was a tribute to "dark romanticism" and the founder's legacy. Puglisi focused on dramatic, architectural silhouettes and dark elegance, reinterpreting Cavalli's iconic motifs—from wild animals to baroque opulence—in a new, dark edition.

Homage to the Founder and Dark Romanticism

Fausto Puglisi emphasized that his debut collection is a nod to the spirit of the founder, Roberto Cavalli. The inspiration was "dark romanticism"—a combination of sensuality with darkness, luxury with architectural construction. Puglisi reinterpreted the brand's iconic motifs, such as snakes and wild cats, giving them a more intriguing and raw form.

Haute Couture Silhouettes with a Black Accent

The collection, presented as part of Milan Fashion Week, consisted mainly of haute couture garments. A key element was the omnipresent black, which dominated many designs. The creations were characterized by strong, sculpted shapes that referenced Gothic architecture and Baroque drama.

Debut of a New Creative Era

This show marks the beginning of a new chapter for the Roberto Cavalli fashion house under Puglisi's creative leadership. The presentation took place in an atmosphere of high industry expectation, with the key question being how the new creative director would combine his own aesthetic with the brand's heritage. This collection is expected to set the direction for the upcoming season.

Fausto Puglisi, who recently took over as creative director of the Roberto Cavalli brand, debuted his first haute couture collection during Milan Fashion Week. The show, which gathered the media world and industry representatives, was the culmination of a new chapter in the history of the Italian fashion house.The Roberto Cavalli fashion house was founded in 1970 in Florence by the Italian designer of the same name. It became known worldwide for its luxurious, extravagant, and often animal prints, which defined the sensual and bold aesthetic of the 70s and 80s. In April 2023, after years of financial difficulties and changing ownership, the brand was acquired by Visibilis, an investment fund managed by Dede and Saverio Moschillo. It was they who decided to entrust the role of creative director to Fausto Puglisi, hoping to revitalize the legend. In his collection, Puglisi opted for continuity, but in a new, dark tone. Instead of Cavalli's characteristic bright colors and revealing cuts, he proposed monumental, architectural shapes and omnipresent black. He drew inspiration from Gothic and Baroque, combining them with the aesthetic of "dark romanticism." The reinterpretation did not go without homage to the founder—snake and wild animal motifs appeared on the runway, but presented with greater restraint and in metallic, gold-black shades. Puglisi explained his vision as an attempt to "show dreams in black," which many critics saw as a metaphor for the brand's new, mature stage. The show took place in a unique atmosphere meant to evoke the designer's personal memories of Roberto Cavalli. As emphasized, Puglisi wanted to capture the founder's spirit—his sensuality and rebellion—while imposing his own, decisive formal language. This was read as a signal to the industry: the Cavalli brand does not intend to abandon its heritage but reinterprets it in a new, contemporary context. The collection was assessed as a bold declaration of intent aimed at attracting a new, younger clientele without alienating existing admirers of Italian luxury. For the fashion house after a period of uncertainty, this is a crucial moment that could determine its future success or failure in the competitive luxury market.

Mentioned People

  • Fausto Puglisi — Italian fashion designer, new creative director of the Roberto Cavalli fashion house.
  • Roberto Cavalli — Italian fashion designer, founder of the legendary Roberto Cavalli fashion house.
  • Sergio Azzolari — CEO of the Roberto Cavalli fashion house. He mentioned respect for the brand's DNA in the new direction.