Massive Sanitary Violations at Mercato Centrale in Milan. Seventeen Establishments Suspended

A sanitary scandal has shaken one of Milan's most famous gastronomic spots – Mercato Centrale, located in the historic Stazione Centrale building. Inspectors from the Health Protection Agency (Ats) Milan-Metropolis conducted a scheduled inspection of all 27 food outlets on February 18-19, 2026. The results were devastating: only four establishments were fully compliant with regulations. In the remaining facilities, a series of serious violations constituting a direct threat to food safety were discovered. The primary issue was the presence of a cockroach infestation, both live and dead, in areas where food was prepared and stored. Inspectors also noted chronic neglect in basic cleaning and infrastructure maintenance. As a result, 17 commercial activities received an immediate order to suspend operations until all irregularities are rectified. This means over 60% of the inspected outlets were closed. Mercato Centrale, opened in 2014 in a restored early 20th-century station hall, quickly became an iconic meeting and quick meal spot for thousands of travelers and tourists. Its concept based on the highest quality Italian products contrasts with the revealed conditions. Italian sanitary regulations, particularly strict in the HoReCa sector, are enforced by local health protection agencies (Ats), which have the authority to immediately halt operations in case of a serious threat. The authorities' reaction was swift and unequivocal. „La tutela della salute dei cittadini viene prima di tutto.” (The protection of citizens' health comes before everything else.) — Guido Bertolaso The regional councilor for social welfare of Lombardy, the former head of Italian civil protection, emphasized in this way the priority treatment of public health over commercial interest. The company managing the facility – Mercato Centrale S.r.l. – also issued an official statement in which it apologized to customers for the situation and committed to full cooperation with control authorities to restore standards as quickly as possible. This incident undermines trust in popular, high-development gastronomic formats and calls into question the effectiveness of their internal oversight. Customers, who for years viewed this place as a "safe haven" at the station, must now await the results of re-inspections and verification of repairs. Left-wing press and social media emphasize the systemic failure of a business model based on image, at the expense of real concern for the hygiene and safety of workers and consumers. | Conservative commentary focuses on insufficient state control and the need for stricter, regular penalties for entities violating the law, with less emphasis on the managerial context.