Milan Fashion Week, presenting the autumn/winter 2026/2027 collections, has concluded, setting a new direction for women's fashion. The dominant themes of the season are futuristic furs, shredded knitwear, ubiquitous black, and bold black-and-white contrasts. Designers such as Donatella Versace, Roberto Cavalli, and Gucci also paid homage to the 1980s aesthetic of the "middle-class housewife style," known as "sciura-core." The trends clearly move away from the minimalism of the past decade towards a more decorative, even ostentatious approach to design.

Dominance of Fur and Knitwear

Models appeared on the runways wrapped in short, shorn furs and in long, extravagant coats made of faux or real fur. Knitwear in the form of knitted sweaters with pulled threads or intentionally frayed edges became a ubiquitous material, adding texture and rebellion to the collections.

Return of Sciura-Core Style

A strong trend is the ironic reference to the aesthetic of the Italian "housewife" from the 1980s, characterized by excessive decoration, a combination of expensive materials with mass production, and a general impression of elegant kitsch. Gucci and Versace collections were full of fur vests, bold appliqués, and cocktail dresses, reinterpreting this style with a wink.

Contrast of White and Black

White became the main new accent, appearing in total looks or paired with total black. This play of contrasts is seen as a sign of moving away from a decade dominated by various shades of gray and neutral earth tones, symbolizing a return to more definitive, graphic, and bold color combinations.

Departure from Minimalism

The new collections seem to definitively close the era of ultra-minimalism that characterized the previous decade. Instead, designers opted for excess, decoration, play of textures and fabrics, and a more theatrical approach to clothing, reflecting a general tendency to seek distinctiveness and pleasure in fashion after years of cool, Scandinavian distance.

Milan Fashion Week, presenting the autumn/winter 2026/2027 collections, has concluded, clearly charting new paths for women's fashion. The main trends emerging from the shows of the major Italian fashion houses paint a picture of a season focused on contrast, texture, and a dose of ironic ostentation. The three main driving forces are the triumph of fur, the new role of knitwear, and the return to strong black-and-white combinations. Fur, both real and faux, appeared in the most spectacular forms. The runways featured short, shorn fur boleros as well as long, majestic, fluffy coats that gave the silhouette a monumental quality. It was accompanied by knitwear, but treated in a completely new way. Instead of classic, smooth sweaters, designers showed knits that were intentionally frayed, with pulled threads, holes, and irregular edges. This technique was meant to add a sense of imperfection, rebellion, and artistic disorder to the styling, serving as a counterpoint to the perfect cut of the furs. Color-wise, aside from the ubiquitous black which remains a staple, the dominant accent became black contrasted with white. All-white total looks and combinations of white with black created graphic, strong contrasts, signaling a departure from the monochromatic, earthy palettes of recent years. Milan Fashion Week, alongside shows in Paris, London, and New York, is one of the four most important events in the global fashion calendar. Since the 1970s, Milan has solidified its position as the capital of luxury and artisanal fashion, being home to legendary brands such as Prada, Armani, Versace, and Dolce&Gabbana. Fashion Weeks serve not only to present collections for the upcoming season but also to set aesthetic and commercial directions for the entire apparel industry. One of the most discussed phenomena of the season is the trend referred to as "sciura-core." This term, originating from Milanese slang and meaning a style reminiscent of a wealthy "housewife" from the 1980s, has been picked up by designers as a source of inspiration. This aesthetic is characterized by a mix of luxury and kitsch, an excess of decoration, fur, glitter, and a clear desire to display financial status. Donatella Versace, Roberto Cavalli, and Alessandro Michele for Gucci presented their own interpretations of this style, often with a wink, combining fur vests with jeans, cocktail dresses with chunky jewelry. This departure from the previous minimalism and normcore is clear. „Vogliamo divertirci, vogliamo essere felici, vogliamo essere noi stessi senza paura” (We want to have fun, we want to be happy, we want to be ourselves without fear) — Donatella Versace ("We want to have fun, we want to be happy, we want to be ourselves without fear") – stated Donatella Versace, which could serve as the motto for the entire season. The new collections seem to say that the time for modesty and silhouette discipline has passed, and the moment has come for the joy of dressing, experimentation, and a return to more theatrical, emotional design.

Mentioned People

  • Donatella Versace — Head designer of the Versace fashion house, whose collection was key to the sciura-core trend.
  • Roberto Cavalli — Fashion designer whose show aligned with the general trends of the season.
  • Alessandro Michele — Former creative director of Gucci, whose aesthetics influenced current trends.